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So far so good, we got El Diente and
Mount Wilson yesterday, and with another
clear, cold night we should be able to shoot for two more summits
today. One of them, Wilson Peak, might not be skiable off the summit,
at least from the side we were approaching from, the other, Gladstone
Peak, is a high 13,000 ft. peak between the two Wilson summits.
Gladstone had been on my list for some time. At 13,913 ft., it
is on the list of 100 highest summits in Colorado, a.k.a 'Centennial'
peaks. Having completed the 14ers in 2001, I looked for the next
challenge. The Centennial peaks list is a perfect 14er 'post graduate'
goal. Comprised of the next forty six highest peaks after the 14ers,
many Centennials are more difficult technically, more remote and
with little or no established trails, considered more challenging
than their 14,000 foot big brothers(I finished the 100 in 2006).
Although I regret it now, we left the skis at camp. Dirk and I
gained the Wilson Peak/Gladstone ridge, crossed onto the lower angled
east side and traversed to the summit headwall. After some steep
steps and some mixed moves we were on top and with an awesome view
of yesterdays ski tracks. With warm temperatures, we quickly got
back to camp, broke it down and head back over the saddle to try
Wilson Peaks NW face.
Getting over the 'Rock of Ages' saddle in this direction is much
easier. We descended and traversed to the base of Wilson Peaks'
broad NW snow face, stashed our camping gear and began skinning.
Eventually the face steepens and becomes a couloir, by then we were
in crampons. Unfortunately we ran out of snow where the couloir
meets the ridge, along the usual summer climb route. The snow would
continue nearer the top, but this stretch would prove impossible
to navigate on skis, so they were left behind. We scrambled on some
rock, about 100 feet or so, and then walked the easy ridge north
to the summit.
What a trip four summits in two days, we were psyched. After an
easy descent to the skis we were on our way back to the car and
ultimately to visit friends down in Telluride, where we managed
to carry our momentum late into the night.
This, is a prime example of a near summit ski that doesn't qualify
under the summit ski definition. There is another, more commiting
route on the NE side of the mountain, that is in condition regularly.
While we were only 200 vertical feet shy of the summit when we put
our skis on, you need to start at the top. We would return with
Christy on 2007 to get it done right.
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