Wilson Peak

14,017 ft.

May 20, 2004
Northwest face
Dirk Bockelmann
 
 
Galdstone Peak from camp- in morning light
Traversing to the summit headwall, we would climb the snow in the middle of the face
Dirk, on the summit, Wilson Peak behind
The line up(and down) the NW side of Wilson Peak.- it gets close to the summit, but not close enough!
Me, in the upper part of the couloir
Lizard Head and the southern San Juans
Dirks' final steps, the three other summits(behind)make it all complete
Skiing back to our gear

So far so good, we got El Diente and Mount Wilson yesterday, and with another clear, cold night we should be able to shoot for two more summits today. One of them, Wilson Peak, might not be skiable off the summit, at least from the side we were approaching from, the other, Gladstone Peak, is a high 13,000 ft. peak between the two Wilson summits.

Gladstone had been on my list for some time. At 13,913 ft., it is on the list of 100 highest summits in Colorado, a.k.a 'Centennial' peaks. Having completed the 14ers in 2001, I looked for the next challenge. The Centennial peaks list is a perfect 14er 'post graduate' goal. Comprised of the next forty six highest peaks after the 14ers, many Centennials are more difficult technically, more remote and with little or no established trails, considered more challenging than their 14,000 foot big brothers(I finished the 100 in 2006).

Although I regret it now, we left the skis at camp. Dirk and I gained the Wilson Peak/Gladstone ridge, crossed onto the lower angled east side and traversed to the summit headwall. After some steep steps and some mixed moves we were on top— and with an awesome view of yesterdays ski tracks. With warm temperatures, we quickly got back to camp, broke it down and head back over the saddle to try Wilson Peaks NW face.

Getting over the 'Rock of Ages' saddle in this direction is much easier. We descended and traversed to the base of Wilson Peaks' broad NW snow face, stashed our camping gear and began skinning. Eventually the face steepens and becomes a couloir, by then we were in crampons. Unfortunately we ran out of snow where the couloir meets the ridge, along the usual summer climb route. The snow would continue nearer the top, but this stretch would prove impossible to navigate on skis, so they were left behind. We scrambled on some rock, about 100 feet or so, and then walked the easy ridge north to the summit.

What a trip— four summits in two days, we were psyched. After an easy descent to the skis we were on our way back to the car and ultimately to visit friends down in Telluride, where we managed to carry our momentum late into the night.

This, is a prime example of a near summit ski that doesn't qualify under the summit ski definition. There is another, more commiting route on the NE side of the mountain, that is in condition regularly. While we were only 200 vertical feet shy of the summit when we put our skis on, you need to start at the top. We would return with Christy on 2007 to get it done right.

  copyright 2007 tedmahon.com