Mount Wilson

14,246 ft.

May 19, 2004
North Face
Dirk Bockelmann
 
 
The line, up and down, as seen from Wilson Peak
Dirk leads up the North Face
Still heading up, the 'Ridge of Gendarmes' up ahead
Mt. Wilson on the left and the more diminutive El Diente on the right. Slate Creek Cirque drops off the left of Mt. Wilson and the North Face to the right
Dirk on Mount Wilsons summit with El Diente behind
Skiing down- got ice axe??
Try this again- got ice axe?
Fun angle, good snow and with camp just below, this was an awesome day

Descending El Diente, we traversed as far as we could towards Mount Wilson and began walking. Switching off trailbreaking duty in regular intervals, we made pretty good time up the very direct north face.

This peak, like El Diente, warrants another visit. At the top of the snowy north face exists a thumb of exposed rock(~20 ft. high)that I've always considered 'unskiable'. On prior summer trips I've witnessed groups with ropes and protection in place to complete the airy moves. When Dirk and I were here in 2004 the primary other documented descent we knew of and hoped to repeat was that by Lou Dawson, who skied from the highest snow. That was right where we were standing. So the skis were put down and the summit was gained, albeit shakily, making the 5th class moves in our ski boots. Upon return to our skis we clicked in and high fived our two peaks skied this day and subsequent 'checking' off the list.

It wouldn't be until several dozen turns later that Dirk would realize he left his ice axe up at the top of the snow and would have to climb back up to retreive it . He always tells me how he wishes I would just forget that kind of stuff. Sorry Dirk.

Again, like El Diente, Davenport and friends would return two years later and improve on our day. According to Chris, the peak is quite skiable and from what I saw, while somewhat contrived and provided a generous snowpack exists, I think he's right.

So again, like El Diente, the descent Dirk and I made kept in the standards of Lou Dawson and was therefore deemed by me and 2004 standards to be 'sufficient'. I plan to return at a later date to improve our line but for now consider Mount Wilson to have been skied.

Back to camp, tomorrow(Wilson Peak) could be another big day.

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