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Descending El Diente, we traversed as
far as we could towards Mount Wilson and began walking. Switching
off trailbreaking duty in regular intervals, we made pretty good
time up the very direct north face.
This peak, like El Diente, warrants another visit. At the top of
the snowy north face exists a thumb of exposed rock(~20 ft. high)that
I've always considered 'unskiable'. On prior summer trips I've witnessed
groups with ropes and protection in place to complete the airy moves.
When Dirk and I were here in 2004 the primary other documented descent
we knew of and hoped to repeat was that by Lou Dawson, who skied
from the highest snow. That was right where we were standing. So
the skis were put down and the summit was gained, albeit shakily,
making the 5th class moves in our ski boots. Upon return to our
skis we clicked in and high fived our two peaks skied this day and
subsequent 'checking' off the list.
It wouldn't be until several dozen turns later that Dirk would
realize he left his ice axe up at the top of the snow and would
have to climb back up to retreive it . He always tells me how he
wishes I would just forget that kind of stuff. Sorry Dirk.
Again, like El Diente, Davenport and friends would return two years
later and improve on our day. According to Chris, the peak is quite
skiable and from what I saw, while somewhat contrived and provided
a generous snowpack exists, I think he's right.
So again, like El Diente, the descent Dirk and I made kept in the
standards of Lou Dawson and was therefore deemed by me and 2004
standards to be 'sufficient'. I plan to return at a later date to
improve our line but for now consider Mount Wilson to have been
skied.
Back to camp, tomorrow(Wilson Peak)
could be another big day.
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