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Longs' was the best. If I had to pick one day that stuck out as
my favorite to date, it would be Longs' Peak. Winter snow on the
steep North face was part of it, success after an uncertain and
very long day added something, but most significant was the group
Christy, Dirk and Sean, that made it the day it was. Of my friends
I venture to the backcountry with, 14ers or lift accessed, summer/winter,
Colorado or abroad, through the years these three have become my
core group, and rarely are we all together. Coming recently from
a solo slog on Massive, Longs' wouldn't
disappoint.
With a 4 am start we booted up past Mills Lake, then Black Lake
to the base of the Trough Couloir. Ascending the Trough was tough
though. Recent snow had yet to consolidate, so booting up became
tiresome deep postholing. Our speed slowed considerably and brought
new questions. We had hoped to ascend the Trough to the Keyhole,
then climb the steep North Face. With conditions as they were in
the Trough, the North Face might be even more difficult, if not
completely unclimbable. Though not our first choice we thought it
might be more expeditious to finish the climb on the standard summer
'Keyhole' route, that is, from the Trough around the back through
the 'Narrows' to the 'Homestretch'. Unfortunately this wouldn't
allow us to scout the ski line or assess conditions on the steep
North side. We'd have to make it work.
Some lunch, pictures and joking around on the summit and we were
skiing from a pole touch of the highest boulder. Once at the edge
of the North Face the mood got real serious. Not only did a foot
or more new snow cover the near 50 degree face, but the crux 'pinch'
area, where in summer you need 5th class climbing moves to overcome
looked real narrow. As if that's not enough, there's a slight tilt
of the ski line to the right. While not quite a double fall line,
a bad wreck could send you cartwheeling over the side and down east
facing 'Diamond', a 2000 foot vertical wall.
Let's not think about that. But how can you not? 50 degrees, big
sharp rocks lurking beneath the deep new snow just itching to send
you head over heels, Christy's on telemark skis, it's time to pucker
up.
I made a few turns down to a relatively 'safe' spot and everyone
followed. Once it was realized we remembered how to turn and that
the snow seemed friendly to our skis, the mood lightened and it
all became fun, just a bit focused. Spying a potential ribbon of
snow through the steep pinch, I guided Christy through, keeping
our skis on the snow. Sean and Dirk felt comfortable with a more
direct line. I took pictures of them airing out the crux.
At this point we were clear from the most concerning objective
hazards. Watching each other take turns ripping up the powder on
what is typically a dangerous and unforgiving mountain made for
quite the moment. Some hoots and hollers were heard from observing
day trippers atop neighboring Mount Lady Washington which added
to it all.
Back down the the boulder field we couldn't believe how this all
turned out. It was some of the best snow I've ever managed to get
on a 14er, and on such a cool, classic route and great weather day.
After taking it all in we booted up through the Keyhole to meet
back up with the Trough couloir. It wasn't long before we were skiing
over Black Lake, past Mills Lake and catching the 'Skiers' shortcut'
which took us to within 200' of the car.
Back in Boulder that night we found ourselves at the Sound Tribe
show, which kept the day going well into the night until we had
made it a full twenty-four hours. For Sean, it was more like thirty-six.
He and I would hit Wetterhorn next.
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