Mount Eolus(S)

14,083 ft.

May 26, 2007
Southwest Face to East Couloir

Christy Sauer

In the East Couloir- photo credit George Barnes
Christy follows, Sunlight and Windom behind
Up top- what a spot, peaks everywhere!
Christy skiing down the back(SW) to the top of the East couloir
Looking down the couloir- kind of tight- the new snow was pretty sloppy
Christy and Windom Peak in the background
Me, on North Eolus, the East Couloir is the one left of the summit
Skiing off the top of North Eolus
Below Glacier Point(above)
Christy gets low in the back chute to Twin Lakes- finishing a cool loop

Don't turn down trips into the Weminuche Wilderness, it's so cool in there. We had both been down there several times by now and Christy wanted to go for the Needle Creek 14ers on skis. Perfect, I thought, because I needed to redo South Eolus, which in 2000 I skied, but only from the top of the East Couloir— which isn't good enough. Plus, I thought I might be able to improve previous descents on Sunlight and Windom as well.

We stayed in a cheap motel in Durango and got the morning train, it was three hours to Needleton. The three hour hike wasn't too bad, even with the big packs. The trail was dry almost the entire way up to the usual camp spots high in Chicago Basin. We were totally psyched to be there. The train conductor said it had snowed five feet a few days earlier! A bit embellished perhaps, there was definitely a lot of snow up high.

The next morning we made quick time up towards Eolus. The sun was warm, and the new snow would need some more time to get set up— this would be sloppy. We booted up the East Couloir and then found easy connecting snow on the southwest side of the peak, all the way to the top. I was happy to be able to get the official summit ski completed. It was a gorgeous day.

We skied down to the couloir, and then into the basin where we racked our skis to climb up towards North Eolus(the unofficial 14,000 ft. neighboring peak). In the process I accidently dropped my ski and it slid way down the hill, ~500 ft. or so. Don't count on your ski brakes to stop a ski all the time! After some cursing I recovered and we started up, eventually meeting two guys trying to traverse the ridge between the two peaks, from north to south, before exposure/technical issues forced an abort, it looked challenging. We followed boot tracks they put in to the summit of North Eolus.

North Eolus is a cool peak with some airiness and views but I have to agree with the established 'rules' that it isn't really it's own distinct peak. Feeling more like a bump on a ridge, I say to those who give credit to unofficial peaks I say 'count it'. We skied the sloppy spring powder towards Glacier Point.

Summiting yet another bump on a ridge(Glacier Point, 13,704 ft.)we skied down the back chute to Twin Lakes and back to camp. It was a great day, I was happy to pull off the remote redo.

Tomorrow would be cool too, we spied some interesting stuff on Sunlight and Windom.

The roundabout route- 3 named summits
  copyright 2007 tedmahon.com