Capitol Peak

14,130 ft.

April 20, 2008
West Face

Al Beyer

The west side of Capitol Peak with route marked up to the 13,900 ft. saddle
The route seen from the southwest with the steep upper finish indicated. Because Al engineered the day we'll call it the "Beyer-Mahon" route
With Avalanche Pass behind, Al makes his way up through the lower 'three problems'
Al takes the lead in the long west side couloir
It's p retty slabby under the snow, year to year it isn't always continuous
Now it gets serious, the boot track can be seen coming from the SW ridge to Als' left. Look good for skiing?
After the steep finish to the ridge the exposure stayed high. We gained this upper section at the saddle in the center of the photo, it's a burly finish and even burlier ski!
Al's all tied in and looking for the next anchor. Always clowning around, Al didn't think he was skiing well and realized it was likely because he had his tele skis on the wrong feet.
Setting up the next anchor from which to belay
After pulling Al in across the rock traverse I was pretty relieved to have the west side saddle in sight

"I'm an architect, I like to think outside the box." That was Al's reasoning as to why we should try to ski Capitol Peak from the west, knowing that to this day, the few other marginally sensible routes either completed, attempted or theorized have been on the other side of the mountain. After I insisted we get some more current beta than the aerial photos from 2006, Al got on the phone and suddenly we were racing to the airport with local pilot Hawk Greenway. Twenty minutes later and just as the sunset, we were flying alongside Capitol's West Face, frantically shooting photos.

After returning home and reviewing the pictures, we agreed we should give it closer look, in person. We'd get ready tomorrow and pull a 2AM alpine start, the following morning. Eighteen hours later we skied back to the car, down the road from the Capitol Creek summer trailhead. The West Face had been skied.

The route itself was pretty cool. Were it not for Al who managed to start down with his telemark skis on the wrong feet, resulting in a precarious moment switching them just below the summit, we didn't take our skis off until we reached the car. We descended our climbing route, first heading west off the summit, down and across the South Face, to the top of the couloir on the west side(skied on belay). From there we skied about 2,600 vertical feet, to 11,500 ft., in upper Avalanche Creek. Though unnecessary, one sidesteppable section was rapelled near the bottom and no ropes were used on the ascent. Our best guess is 16+ miles roundtrip. The pictures can give some more details of the day.

With this, I had completed ski descents of all 54 official 14,000 ft. peaks in Colorado. It was an awesome end to it all. Having started back on May 23, 1999 with Quandary Peak, my original goal was not to ski them all but to simply climb them, in any season, which I completed in 2001. After a few years of lean snowpacks and travelling I realized the goal to ski them all in 2004, after a series of spring trips that netted a dozen plus descents. The next year proved to be a good one as well, and then, Chris Davenport came along in 2006 and really stoked the fire.

In the end, and after nearly ten years, I have to say I loved the whole experience. On any given trip the snow might be terrible and the weather and wind punishing. There could be a half a days driving each way, with early starts, late finishes, long approaches or overnights with huge backpacks. Equipment got trashed, feet blistered, faces sunburned and lips chapped. My head ached at times from the altitude or dehydration, yet when the day was done, even after the most mindless of slogs on the more boring and uninteresting peaks, it somehow always felt good.

It's interesting to see this arena of Colorado backcountry skiing evolve through the years. Initially, there were few people to talk with about this topic. Through his guidebook and website, Lou Dawson opened it up to anyone interested, and there were a few through the years, but it was Chris Davenport who served as the real catalyst. The attention he brought skiing 14ers has since started a sort of renaissance, though I've heard some compare it more to a stampede.

Thanks to everyone involved through the years, especially Al who helped me get it done on Capitol and Christy who partnered with me on 26 peaks and threw an awesome party when it was all done. You're the best!

Finally some more normal steep 14er skiing
Al makes Capitols' first telemark descent 'official' with Mount Sopris behind
Lower down and ready to ski through the 'three problems'
Al's ready to drop in, almost at the bottom
  copyright 2007 tedmahon.com